How to tie Scott Lloyd's Noodle rig

How to tie Scott Lloyd's Noodle rig

We show you how to tie Scott Lloyd's Noodle rig, while the man himself talks you through the theory behind it and when to use it.


  • Size 4 Korda Wide Gape X hooks

  • 20lb Korda N-Trap Semi-stiff

  • 4oz lead on a safety clip

  • Medium Korda shrink tube

  • Medium Korda rig rings

  • Dumbell boilies

Scott told Carpfeed: “This is known as the Noodle rig, but I also call it the ‘half a stick’ rig because it incorporates half a length of shrink tube.

“The thinking behind it comes from my love of longshank curve hooks. They’re great hooks, but they can be pretty ruthless with the mouth, twisting round and catching in the net. So this is a safe solution.

“I’m very meticulous and sequenced in my approach and I’ve watched fish do a lot of things with rigs in the edge.

“Do I think the big piece of shrink tube puts them off? Not at all. I’ve seen carp spook off leads, definitely, but not off rig components.

“I’ve also never seen them be able to deal with this rig. This isn’t me guessing, either – this is what I’ve seen from climbing trees and watching fish.

“I’ve used quite a lot of rigs in the edge, where the fish are at their most wary, and I’ve seen them deal with most of them – especially those tied with pop-ups, which they can easily blow out.

“To date, I’ve never seen a fish spit this rig out, and that gives me a massive amount of confidence.

“I will occasionally use this rig with a bit of putty (where the coated braid is broken) but I prefer to get my balance from the hookbait – I always go for balanced hookbaits.

“I’ve witnessed fish coming over baits and controlling their suction to work out which bits are safe. With a ‘heavy’ bait, you’re unlikely to catch these fish.

“I test the balance of the rig in the edge before I cast out – I want the rig to just kick away (from the lead) when it drops.

“I also never cast out any bait without a piece of dissolvable foam. I wrap this around the back of the hook, lick the tips of it, then just pinch them together.

"There is an art to it and it takes practice. You don’t want to squeeze the whole thing flat, because it’s the air in it that keeps it buoyant. And you don’t want it sticking to itself too much, though.

“I use Korda Wide Gape X hooks for this rig, and they are very sharp straight from the packet. I would only sharpen a hook if I knew it wouldn’t be out in the water for longer than 24 hours, because I feel the acidity of the water causes problems.

“Finally, when putting the curve in the shrink tube, I dunk it in boiling water rather than steam it, because steam can damage some hooklinks and the water gives you longer to mould the tubing.”


1) Strip back five or six inches of the braid’s coating


2) Thread on a Korda Wide Gape X hook and tie a small overhand loop in the end


3) Next, attach a medium rig ring to the stripped section, a couple of inches back from the small loop.


4) Pass the hookpoint through the rig ring and then attach the hook using a knotless knot


5) Snip one of the shrink tube sticks in half


6) Thread this down the hooklink and just over the eye


 7) Shrink the tube down using boiling water rather than steam


8) Use your thumb to gently curve the shrink tube while it's still malleable


9) Attach a dumbell hookbait. Scott sometimes whittles these down near the base to aid hooking and reduce ejection